72 Hours In Riyadh

“You’re going where?!” my mum’s voice laughed down the phone.
“Riyadh,” I replied, attempting nonchalance.
“Riyadh, Saudi?!”
“Yes, Mum. The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.”
“And they’re hosting a women’s golf tournament there?”
“Yes, Mum, I’ve been invited to spend 72 hours in Riyadh, attend the Aramco Team Series’ final stop on the tour, and explore what Riyadh has to offer as a destination for women…”

So there I was, 9PM at Heathrow airport, passport in one hand, a final glass of wine in the other, wondering just where this journey might lead. Let’s get a few things straight: I’ve never attended a golf tournament, I’ve never set foot in Saudi Arabia, and while I love Middle Eastern food and a strong coffee, this was about as far from my usual ‘holiday’ or ‘work trip’ destination as one could get.

We touched down at 5:30AM, greeted by a wave of warm air and a symphony of taxi offers. I found my Uber and headed toward the hotel, my mind buzzing with curiosity. Riyadh was, well, different from what I’d envisioned. Instead of the vast, rolling desert dunes I’d naively imagined, I was greeted by sprawling, open landscapes—miles of quiet space occasionally broken by towering, half-finished buildings, like ambitious new landmarks waiting to take shape. Amid these vast stretches were signs of rapid growth, marked by compounds, development sites, and, frequently, endless traffic jams snaking down the motorway, with cars crawling along as far as the eye could see.

So let’s talk Team Series, or the official title, The Aramco Team Series presented by Public Investment Fund (PIF). This innovative women’s golf tournament, part of the Ladies European Tour, features a unique format where teams of three professionals and one amateur compete, with the amateur’s performance contributing to the team’s score. Taking place across three continents, the tournaments feature the world’s best players teaming up with amateur golfers to compete for $1 million prize funds. Using a unique draft system, team captains pick one pro teammate and are allocated a third via a random draw, with one amateur golfer completing each team.

Riyadh was the final stop on the 2024 tour, following events in Florida, Korea, London, and Shenzhen.

Do I particularly like golf? Full transparency, it’s not at the top of my list, but I enjoy a morning at the range every now and again. I might (poorly) play a quick 9 holes if it’s a nice day in the summer and I want to spend time with my (golf-loving) brother. Do I watch golf? Occasionally, I’ll have it on in the background, but not really. So why did I accept the invitation? Curiosity, plain and simple. Saudi Arabia isn’t somewhere I would think of booking for a mini-break, and despite being invited previously to various sporting events, I’d never been invited to a solely women’s event. Given the kingdom’s recent investments in sport, from professional to grassroots, I was intrigued.

Saudi merch, frizzy hair, golfer Nuria Iturrioz Servera and caddy getting into the Halloween spirit!

So, let’s address the elephant in the room: sportswashing. The term is often associated with Saudi Arabia’s foray into global sports, with critics arguing that the kingdom uses high-profile events to divert attention from its human rights record. However, after working in sport for a few years, I’ve seen how changes that might take a decade in the UK or US can unfold here almost overnight, thanks to substantial investments.

Saudi Arabia has been investing heavily in sports, particularly football and boxing, as part of Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s Vision 2030—an initiative to prepare the kingdom for a post-oil era. Significant strides have also been made in women’s sports: the kingdom recently launched its third women’s national football team (the Under-17 squad) and hosted its first professional international golf tournament, the Ladies European Tour, where Saudi women played alongside international female players.

Golf Saudi and the Public Investment Fund (PIF) have been pivotal in this transformation, providing foundational support for the Aramco Team Series as part of their broader mission to promote women’s golf, both for elite players and aspiring athletes across Saudi Arabia. The vision is ambitious, focusing on sports as a vehicle for positive change.

Further reinforcing this commitment, the Women’s Tennis Association (WTA) has recently formed a multi-year partnership with Saudi Arabia’s PIF, now the first-ever naming partner of the WTA rankings. Riyadh will also host the WTA Finals for the next three years, starting now, this November, with a record prize fund of $15.25 million. These initiatives are all part of Vision 2030, which aims to diversify the economy and position Saudi Arabia as a progressive global hub, with sports and culture as tools to reshape the kingdom’s image and create new opportunities, especially for women.

Traditional coffee making. As the birthplace of coffee culture, Saudis treat coffee as a moment to pause, gather, and connect.

commitment

Danish golfer Smilla Tarning Sønderby and caddy watch on

With these thoughts swirling in my mind, I embarked on my 72-hour journey in Riyadh, eager to witness firsthand the intersection of tradition and transformation in the realm of women’s sports.

As I arrived at the Riyadh Golf Club, the initial impression was a contrast to the barren stretches I’d driven through. Here was a lush, sprawling green space that looked entirely out of place in the middle of the dry, golden landscape I’d passed on the way. Lush fairways stretched in every direction, punctuated by water features, palm trees, and vast, vibrant lawns. The staff were all dressed in blue polos and greeted me with huge smiles.

“Would you like a coffee?” they asked, thrusting into my hand a ‘Spanish Iced Latte’ to quell the 33-degree heat. I’d never had one before, but by the end of the trip, I’d had enough of these sugary, condensed milk-based lattes to last a lifetime. It’s worth mentioning that coffee in Saudi Arabia is more than a drink—it’s a social ritual. As the birthplace of coffee culture, Saudis treat coffee as a moment to pause, gather, and connect.

The infamous Spanish Latte by tour coffee sponsors Brew 92

Settling into the tournament atmosphere, I tried not to have preconceived ideas, but I couldn’t help expecting the classic golf scene: Panama hats, chinos, and spectators in golf attire. Golf is probably the only sport where athletes, officials, and spectators wear almost identical clothing, and I half-expected people here to do the same. But the crowd was far more diverse than I anticipated. Traditional Saudi attire was abundant—thawbs for men, abayas for women—but alongside that were polo shirts, baseball caps, and a variety of contemporary Western styles. It felt refreshingly modern, like I was seeing a side of Saudi Arabia that wasn’t often presented to the world.

I was dressed casually in an oversized cotton shirt and linen trousers, my hair uncovered and in full frizz mode from the dry heat. Despite what I’d heard about conservative dress codes, no one batted an eye. In fact, I felt more comfortable here than I sometimes do on Shoreditch High Street. Moving between the malls, the old town, and various events, I noticed that people paid very little attention to me, and I never once felt out of place. Riyadh surprised me with how secure and surprisingly open it felt.

As I walked toward the media centre, I ran into two Irish women who’d been living in Riyadh for several years. They laughed, admitting they were just as surprised as I was to find themselves at a golf tournament in Saudi Arabia. “I’ve been dragged here by her,” one of them laughed, pointing to her friend, who was clearly the golf fan of the two. “I love golf, but it’s hard to get people interested here,” she explained. And she wasn’t wrong—golf isn’t yet ingrained in Saudi culture the way it is in the UK or the US, but there’s a growing interest.

The “Pink Walk” initiative was aimed at raising breast cancer awareness.

Team Tamburlini (Chiara Tamburlini, Anne-Charlotte Mora, Mimi Rhodes & amateur Tenniel Chun) lift the trophy!

One of the standout features of the tournament was the team format, which gave it a unique dynamic. I watched Team Tamburlini, led by Switzerland’s Chiara Tamburlini, claim a record-breaking victory, finishing an incredible 10 shots ahead. Chiara, alongside her teammates—France’s Anne-Charlotte Mora, England’s Mimi Rhodes, and amateur Tenniel Chun—was unstoppable. Their 43-under-par performance shattered records for the Aramco Team Series, with Chiara becoming the first captain to win back-to-back events. Watching her on the course, you could sense the camaraderie and excitement. “We had a great team again, and we all played well,” said Tamburlini. “But to be top again, it just shows as well how much I love this format and how well it suits my game and my mental game especially.”

The format itself was refreshingly easy to follow, even for a golf novice like myself. And the tournament’s atmosphere was also unexpected; music played throughout, giving it an almost festival-like vibe. Sponsors were introduced to the beat of an Eminem track—odd choice, but somehow it worked. The crowd wasn’t huge, but those present seemed genuinely invested, sipping on luminous blue mocktails and teas from the viewing deck at the 18th hole.

But it wasn’t all golf. Riyadh offered a mix of experiences I hadn’t anticipated. I took time to explore Diriyah, the historic heart of Saudi Arabia and the original home of the Saudi royal family, with its ancient mud-brick buildings and lush gardens. Sitting under a palm tree with a “Classic Punch” (a tangy pomegranate juice with herbs), I couldn’t help but be struck by the contrast between Diriyah’s serene, preserved beauty and the modern hustle I’d seen in the city. It’s places like Diriyah that show Riyadh’s deeper, quieter side—a side not often in the global spotlight.

Back at the tournament, I noticed that everyone was wearing pink on the final day. Was it a “Mean Girls” moment—where on Saturdays, “we all wear pink”? A quick inquiry revealed it was actually part of the Aramco Team Series’ “Pink Walk” initiative, aimed at raising breast cancer awareness. Attendees were invited to ‘lap’ the golf course, with each lap generating donations for breast cancer check-ups and mammograms through partnerships with organisations like Dr. Sulaiman Al-Habib Medical Group.

"It’s places like Diriyah that show Riyadh’s deeper, quieter side—a side not often in the global spotlight."

I quickly became obsessed with visiting the camels...

I joined the walk alongside a woman in a stunning embroidered abaya and Dior mules. “You’re walking the course in Dior heels?!” I asked, laughing. She laughed too, pulling a pair of Hokas from her bag. As we walked, we chatted about life in Riyadh. “I love it here,” she said. “There is so much opportunity. My work in finance has taken me all over the world, I’ve lived in the US and in Spain, but here, I actually feel more respected in my job than anywhere else. Plus, there’s opportunity for my children—my son is obsessed with basketball, and my daughter, she’s into horses. I spend half my life driving between the stables and the basketball court.” We shared a laugh over the infamous Riyadh traffic, but she echoed a sentiment I heard often: she wouldn’t leave Riyadh for the world.

One of the quirkiest features of the course was the camels. Over a bridge, next to the pond with a car parked on a platform in the middle of it (some sort of competition, I think?!), there was a pen full of surprisingly friendly camels— a surreal sight for a golf course. At the end of each day, they’d be let out of their pen to trot along the course as the sun set. It was one of the few reminders I was in the Middle East—a small, almost poetic glimpse of local culture amidst the very international golf setting.

international

One evening, I made my way to The Boulevard, an entertainment district that felt like a mix of an immaculately maintained Times Square and Las Vegas sans the foot-long margaritas, but with Riyadh’s own twist. The Boulevard is the largest sustainable entertainment hub in Riyadh, showcasing gardens, a dancing fountain, numerous cafes, and both local and international shops featuring some of the world’s top brands. There were theatres for artistic performances, live shows, and events happening almost everywhere. Billboards featuring local and international stars, including Cristiano Ronaldo (now with Al Nassr FC), lit up the night sky alongside flashy neon signs and luxury storefronts. The Hype Museum, nearby, was packed with visitors snapping photos, and every corner seemed to host a new attraction or performance, and the palace was so vast you could take a cable car from one side of it to the other.

Of course, my trip wouldn’t be complete without hunting for an elusive perfume with a top note of oud that I’d been chasing since my first visit to Oman as a teenager. Riyadh’s perfume shops are an experience in themselves—rows of intricate bottles, shop attendants offering coffee beans to clear my sinuses between sprays, and a nearly overwhelming array of scents. After what felt like a hundred samples, I finally found a scent that matched my memory, with packaging to match. (Turned out it was a near identical to a Tom Ford fragrance; and now, upon reflection, i’m pretty sure Tom Ford ‘borrowed’ this scent mix and brought it to the masses. It was also a fraction of the price!) Thrilled, I treated my travel companion to dinner—mixed grills for all!

Rows upon rows of fragrances on offer, incredible food, one of many sculptures at The Boulevard

We ended up at a ‘traditional’ Middle Eastern restaurant—though how traditional it truly was, I couldn’t help but question (thanks, Yelp!). The best way to describe it? A luxurious Arabic twist on the Rainforest Café, complete with bird sounds and lush greenery. After vetoing the ‘treehouse table’—yes, there was actually a ladder leading to a treehouse, further fuelling my doubts on authenticity—we settled in and enjoyed a truly delicious spread of undeniably Middle Eastern fare: hummus, baba ganoush, fattoush salads, and Saudi Arabia’s national dish, Kabsa—a flavourful mix of rice, meat, and spices. The highlight was Mutabbaq, a rich, savoury stuffed pastry that was irresistibly moreish. My friend, however, was less enthusiastic about the 0% beer selection, particularly the strawberry-flavoured one, which was swiftly abandoned after a single sip.

Returning to the tournament, I continued to be surprised by the international flair mixed with local charm. Fashion, for instance, was an unexpected element. From Charley Hull in Malbon Golf gear to amateur player Daphne Zhang in possibly the chicest golfing look I’ve ever seen. Golf fashion icon Johan Lindeberg, also playing as an amateur, strolled onto the course each morning in Adidas tracksuits and leather jackets. There was a clear crossover of streetwear and luxury, a trend that young players like Paris Hilinski are pioneering. Paris, a 21-year-old golfer, blends high-end streetwear with classic golf attire, and her recent collaboration with Off-White brought a fresh, edgy aesthetic to the course. Wearing custom-designed Off-White pieces, she’s redefining what golf attire can be. But more on the evolution of golf fashion another time—I’m currently working on a full piece about this shift in style, so stay tuned!

Johan Lindeberg, Paris Hilinski, Daphne Zhang

Charley Hull about to win the individual trophy.

Champion

As I stood on the viewing platform, surrounded by new friends, the final moments of the tournament were unforgettable. Team Hull walked down the fairway to the green, with Charley Hull leading after a near faultless week. She finished with a score of 18-under-par, her biggest margin of victory since her win at the Aramco Team Series in New York in 2021. “Yeah, I felt really sharp, I played very solidly today,” laughed Hull as she was awarded the individual trophy. She celebrated with her teammates, showered in water (not champagne!) by her friend, fellow golfer Georgia Hall as the crowd cheered. The camels trotted down the fairway as Hull spoke into the mic declaring that she would be celebrating by going to Elan Cafe- yes, the famed eatery usually found outside Harrods and now all over Saudi Arabia—for a well-deserved big slice of cake.

Team winner Chiara Tamburlini gets friendly with the camels...

One of the most impactful aspects of the experience was the kindness and openness of the Saudi people. Every interaction I had—from the tournament staff to locals I met outside—reinforced a sense of warmth and genuine hospitality. At one point, I was struggling to locate my Uber pickup, and a security guard noticed my confusion. Without hesitation, he took my phone, called the driver, and insisted they come directly to me. As we waited, he struck up a conversation, asking if I knew Tommy. “Tommy?” I questioned. “Yes, Tommy Shelby! From Peaky Blinders! I LOVE Netflix.” It was a reminder that while Saudi Arabia is culturally distinct, there are shared connections everywhere.

Reflecting on Saudi’s commitment to women’s sports, I found myself torn between skepticism and admiration. On one hand, there’s no denying the controversy surrounding their investments, especially with terms like “sportswashing” circulating widely. But on the other, it’s hard not to be impressed by the tangible changes I witnessed. Facilities, opportunities, and visibility for female athletes have accelerated rapidly—changes that might take decades elsewhere. It’s tempting to think I’ve drunk the Kool-Aid (or Spanish latte), but there’s real potential here.

Yet, while golf has made inroads, the sport still faces challenges. As my Uber driver took me down the long, palm-lined drive to the course one morning, he took out his phone to snap a picture, uploading it to Snapchat with obvious excitement. “Do you play golf?” I asked. He laughed, “No, but I’d like to learn.” It’s a sentiment I heard repeatedly—while there’s interest, golf remains niche, overshadowed by sports like football, boxing, and even basketball. Barriers of accessibility, cost, and tradition still loom large, and building a fanbase will take time and perhaps some cultural shifts. Plus, let’s face it, building and maintaining a golf course in essentially the desert, requires huge investment.

As I sit here, writing this from Riyadh airport at the end of a whirlwind 72 hours, I’m left with a sense of awe and numerous questions about the future. Over the past few years, through education and my work in sport, my perspective on Saudi investment has evolved. I’ve come to understand that the realities of such investment are often far more complex than a headline on the evening news. In the realm of women’s sport, I’ve seen how these investments can go beyond mere sponsorship; they are shaping the future of sport, and Saudi Arabia’s involvement feels particularly focused and ambitious.

The sport of falconry is a deep-rooted part of traditional Saudi culture

What I’ve observed here is a Kingdom making bold strides to elevate women’s sport, not merely for global prestige but to build a foundation for lasting change. This commitment is creating spaces where women’s visibility, participation, and empowerment can flourish, and it’s making a meaningful impact on the social landscape. There’s a palpable intent to foster opportunities for young Saudi women, to inspire them, and to signal to the world that genuine change—while gradual—is well underway.

As I leave Riyadh, I realise my view of the city and the country has shifted in ways I hadn’t anticipated. Riyadh itself embodies a unique blend of ancient history and unapologetic modernity, where tradition stands alongside sweeping change. While challenges still exist—cultural, logistical, and economic—there’s a palpable energy among locals eager to engage with sports they might have previously seen as out of reach.

For anyone considering a trip to this evolving city, I’d say go with an open mind. Riyadh isn’t just testing the boundaries of what’s possible in sport; it’s actively redefining its own identity, one Spanish latte, golf tournament, and community initiative at a time.

To find out more about Aramco Team Series and their 2025 tour, tap here.

A quick note: while my flights and accommodation were kindly arranged by the Aramco Team Series, all opinions shared here are entirely my own. No one has encouraged me to be positive—what you’re reading is my genuine perspective, untouched by outside influence!